| Rufus Recipes
A Modern Baked
Goods (14)
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Good Things to Eat as Suggested by Rufus, by Rufus Estes Republished from Project Gutenbergwww.gutenberg.org Title: Good Things to Eat as Suggested by Rufus A Collection of Practical Recipes for Preparing Meats, Game, Fowl, Fish, Puddings, Pastries, Etc. Author: Rufus Estes Release Date: May 22, 2006 Produced by: Audrey Longhurst, Janet Blenkinship and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net NOTE: THIS DOCUMENT USES THE AMERICAN SPELLING CONVENTION
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| Four teaspoonfuls of a liquid equal 1 tablespoonful. |
| Four tablespoonfuls of a liquid equal 1/2 gill or 1/4 cup. |
| One-half cup equals 1 gill. |
| Two gills equal 1 cup. |
| Two cups equal 1 pint. |
| Two pints (4 cups) equal 1 quart. |
| Four cups of flour equal 1 pound or 1 quart. |
| Two cups of butter, solid, equal 1 pound. |
| One half cup of butter, solid, equals 1/4 pound 4 ounces. |
| Two cups of granulated sugar equal 1 pound. |
| Two and one half cups of powdered sugar equal 1 pound. |
| One pint of milk or water equals 1 pound. |
| One pint of chopped meat equals 1 pound. |
| Ten eggs, shelled, equal 1 pound. |
| Eight eggs with shells equal 1 pound. |
| Two tablespoonfuls of butter equal 1 ounce. |
| Two tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar equal 1 ounce. |
| Four tablespoonfuls of flour equal 1 ounce. |
| Four tablespoonfuls of coffee equal 1 ounce. |
| One tablespoonful of liquid equals 1/2 ounce. |
| Four tablespoonfuls of butter equal 2 ounces or 1/4 cup. |
| All measurements are level unless otherwise stated in the recipe. |
ASPARAGUS SOUP—Take three pounds of knuckle of
veal and put it to boil in a gallon of water with a couple of bunches of
asparagus, boil for three hours, strain, and return the juice to the pot. Add
another bunch of asparagus, chopped fine, and boil for twenty minutes, mix a
tablespoonful of flour in a cup of milk and add to the soup. Season with salt
and pepper, let it come to a boil, and serve at once.
BEAN SOUP—One-half pound or one cup is sufficient for one quart of soup. Soups can be made which use milk or cream as basis. Any kind of green vegetable can be used with them, as creamed celery or creamed cauliflower. The vegetable is cooked and part milk and part water or part milk and part cream are used.
BISQUE OF CLAMS—Place a knuckle of veal, weighing about a pound and one-half, into a soup kettle, with a quart of water, one small onion, a sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, and the liquor drained from the clams, and simmer gradually for an hour and a half, skimming from time to time; strain the soup and again place it in the kettle; rub a couple of tablespoonfuls of butter with an equal amount of flour together and add it to the soup when it is boiling, stirring until again boiling; chop up twenty-five clams very fine, then place them in the soup, season and boil for about five minutes, then add a pint of milk or cream, and remove from the fire immediately, and serve.
BISQUE OF LOBSTER—Remove the meat of the lobster from its shell and cut the tender pieces into quarter-inch dice; put the ends of the claw-meat and any tough portions in a saucepan with the bones of the body and a little cold water and boil for twenty minutes, adding a little water from time to time as may be necessary; put the coral to dry in a moderate oven, and mix a little flour with some cold milk, and stir the milk, which should be boiling, stirring over the fire for ten[Pg 12] minutes, then strain the water from the bones and other parts, mix it with milk, add a little butter, salt, pepper and cayenne to taste, and rub the dry coral through a fine-haired sieve, putting enough into the soup having it a bright pink color. Place the grease fat and lobster dice in a soup tureen, strain the boiling soup over them, and serve at once.
BISQUE OF OYSTERS—Place about thirty medium-sized oysters in a saucepan together with their own juice and poach them over a hot fire, after which drain well; then fry a shallot colorless in some butter, together with an onion, sprinkle over them a little curry and add some of the oyster juice, seasoning with salt and red pepper. Pound the oysters to a good firm paste, moistening them with a little of their juice, and strain through fine tammy cloth. Warm them over the fire, but do not let them boil; add a small quantity of thickening of potato flour mixed with a little water. When about to serve incorporate some cream and fine butter, garnishing with some chopped oysters and mushrooms, mixed with breadcrumbs and herbs. Add a little seasoning of salt, pepper and nutmeg, some raw egg yolks, and roll this mixture into ball-shape pieces, place them on a well-buttered baking sheet in a slack oven and poach them, then serve.
BLACK BEAN SOUP—Wash one pint of black beans, cover with one quart of cold water and let soak over night. In the morning pour off the water and pour over three pints of cold water. Cook, covered, until tender, four or five hours, add one tablespoonful of salt the last hour, rub through a strainer, add the strained beans to the water in which they were boiled, return to the soup kettle. Melt one tablespoonful of flour, stir this into the hot soup, let boil, stirring constantly; add a little pepper, slice thinly one lemon, put all the slices into the tureen and pour the soup over. Serve very hot.
CHESTNUT SOUP—Peel and blanch the chestnuts, boil them in salted water until quite soft, pass through a sieve, add more water if too thick, and a spoonful of butter or several of sweet cream. Season to taste and serve with small squares of bread fried crisp in butter or olive oil.
CHICKEN GUMBO, CREOLE STYLE—For about twelve or fifteen, one young hen chicken, half pound ham, quart fresh okra, three large tomatoes, two onions, one kernel garlic, one small red pepper, two tablespoons flour, three quarts boiling water, half pound butter, one bay leaf, pinch salt and cayenne[Pg 13] pepper. To mix, mince your ham, put in the bottom of an iron kettle if preferred with the above ingredients except the chicken. Clean and cut your chicken up and put in separate saucepan with about a quart or more of water and teaspoonful of salt; set to the side of the fire for about an hour; skim when necessary. When the chicken is thoroughly done strip the meat from the bone and mix both together; just before serving add a quart of shrimps.
CREAM OF CELERY SOUP—Chop fine one head of celery and put on to cook in one pint of water. Boil until tender, add one pint of milk, thicken with a spoonful of butter, season to taste, and strain. Then add one cupful of whipped cream and serve at once.
EGG SOUP—Beat three eggs until light, then add one-half cupful of thick sweet cream and one cupful of milk, pour over this two quarts of boiling water, set on the fire until it comes to a boil, season to taste, then pour over broken bread in the tureen and serve.
GREEN PEA SOUP—Put one quart of green peas into two cups of boiling water, add a saltspoon of salt, and cook until tender. Rub peas and liquor through a puree strainer, add two cups of boiling water, and set back where the pulp will keep hot. Heat two cups of milk, add a teaspoon of flour rubbed into a rounding tablespoon of butter, season with salt, pepper, and a level teaspoon of sugar. Add to the hot vegetable pulp, heat to the boiling point, and serve.
GREEN TOMATO SOUP—Chop fine five green tomatoes and boil twenty minutes in water to cover. Then add one quart hot milk, to which a teaspoonful soda has been added, let come to a boil, take from the fire and add a quarter cupful butter rubbed into four crackers rolled fine, with salt and pepper to taste.
ONION SOUP—Cut three onions small, put one-quarter cup of butter in a kettle and toast one tablespoon flour till bright yellow in color; in it mix with this the onions, pour on as much broth as is wanted, add a little mace and let boil, then strain, allow to cook a little longer, add yolk of two eggs, and serve.
PEANUT SOUP—Made like a dry pea soup. Soak a pint and one-half nut meats over night in two quarts of water. In the morning add three quarts of water, bay-leaf, stalk of celery, blade of mace and one slice of onion. Boil slowly for four or five hours, stirring frequently to keep from burning. Rub through[Pg 14] a sieve and return to the fire, when heated through again add one cupful of cream. Serve hot with croutons.
SAGO SOUP—Wash one-half cup sago in warm water, add desired amount of boiling broth (meat or chicken), a little mace, and cook until the sago is soft, and serve.
SALMON SOUP—Take the skin and bones from canned salmon and drain off the oil. Chop fine enough of the fish to measure two-thirds of a cup. Cook a thick slice of onion in a quart of milk twenty minutes in a double boiler. Thicken with one-quarter cup of flour rubbed smooth with one rounding tablespoonful of butter. Cook ten minutes, take out the onion, add a saltspoon of pepper, one level teaspoon of salt and the salmon. Rub all through a fine strainer, and serve hot. The amount of salmon may be varied according to taste.
SORREL SOUP—Wash thoroughly a pint of sorrel leaves and put in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, four or five of the large outside leaves, a sliced onion, and a few small sprigs of parsley. Toss over the fire for a few minutes, then sift into the pan two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until blended with the butter remaining. Transfer to the soup kettle and pour in gradually, stirring all the time, three quarts of boiling water. Cook gently for fifteen or twenty minutes, then add a cupful of mashed potato and one of hot milk. Season with salt, pepper and a little nutmeg. Have in the soup tureen some croutons of bread toasted brown, pour the hot soup over them and serve. The sorrel should be cut in fine pieces before cooking. This is one of the delicacies of the early spring, its slightly acid flavor making it particularly appetizing.
TOMATO SOUP—Put one quart can of tomatoes, two cups of water, one-half level tablespoon of sugar, one level teaspoon of salt, four whole cloves, and four peppercorns together in a saucepan and simmer twenty minutes. Fry a rounding tablespoon of chopped onion and half as much minced parsley in a rounding tablespoon of butter until yellow, add two level tablespoons of cornstarch. Stir until smooth, then turn into the boiling soup and simmer ten minutes. Add more salt and pepper and strain.
TOMATO SOUP—Into a saucepan put one quart can of
tomatoes and two cups of broth from soup bones. To make this cover the bones and
meat with cold water and simmer slowly for several hours. Add to tomato and
stock a bit of bay leaf, one stalk celery cut in pieces, six peppercorns, a
level teaspoon[Pg 15]
of salt and a rounding teaspoon of sugar. Cook slowly until tomato is soft.
Meanwhile put a rounding tablespoon of butter in a small saucepan and when
melted and hot turn in a medium-sized onion cut fine. When this has cooked
slowly until yellow, but not browned, add enough of the tomato to dilute it,
then turn all back into the larger saucepan. Mix and press through a strainer to
take out the seeds and bits of vegetables, reheat, and serve with small
croutons.
TOMATO SOUP, CORNED BEEF STOCK—Put one quart can tomatoes on to boil, add six peppercorns, one-half inch blade of mace and a bit of bay leaf the same size. Fry one sliced onion in one level tablespoonful butter or beef fat until slightly colored, add this to the tomato, and simmer until the tomato is quite soft, and the liquor reduced one-half. Stir in one-fourth teaspoon of soda, and when it stops foaming turn into a puree strainer and rub the pulp through. Put the strained tomato on to boil again and add an equal amount of corned beef liquor, or enough to make three pints in all.
Melt one heaped tablespoon butter in a smooth saucepan, add one heaped tablespoon cornstarch, and gradually add part of the boiling soup. Stir as it thickens, and when smooth stir this into the remainder of the soup. Add one teaspoon salt and one-fourth teaspoon paprika. Reserve one pint of this soup to use with spaghetti. Serve buttered and browned crackers with the soup.
VEGETABLE BROTH—Take turnips, carrots, potatoes, beets, celery, all, or two or three, and chop real fine. Then mix with them an equal amount of cold water, put in a kettle, just bring to a boil, not allowing it to boil for about three or four hours, and then drain off the water. The flavor will be gone from the vegetables and will be in the broth.
VEGETABLE SOUP—Take one-half a turnip, two carrots, three potatoes, three onions and a little cabbage. Run through a meat chopper with coarse cutter and put to cook in cold water. Cook about three hours. If you wish you can put a little bit of cooking oil in. When cooked add one quart of tomatoes. This will need about six quarts of water.
The most nutritious soups are made from peas and beans.
VEGETABLE SOUP (without stock)—One-half cup each of carrot and turnip, cut into small pieces, three-fourths cup of celery, cut fine, one very small onion sliced thin, four level tablespoons of butter, three-fourths cup of potato, cut into small dice,[Pg 16] one and one-half quarts of boiling water, salt and pepper to taste. Prepare the vegetables and cook the carrot, celery and onion in the butter for ten minutes without browning. Add the potato and cook for three minutes longer, then add the water and cook slowly for one hour. Rub through a sieve, add salt and pepper to taste, and a little butter if desired.
WHITE SOUP—Put six pounds of lean gravy beef into a saucepan, with half gallon of water and stew gently until all the good is extracted and remove beef. Add to the liquor six pounds of knuckle of veal, one-fourth pound ham, four onions, four heads of celery, cut into small pieces, a few peppercorns and bunch of sweet herbs. Stew gently for seven or eight hours, skimming off the fat as it rises to the top. Mix with the crumbs of two French rolls two ounces of blanched sweet almonds and put in a saucepan with a pint of cream and a little stock, boil ten minutes, then pass through a silk sieve, using a wooden spoon in the process. Mix the cream and almonds with the soup, turn into a tureen, and serve.
WINE SOUP—Put the yolks of twelve eggs and whites of six in an enameled saucepan and beat thoroughly. Pour in one and a half breakfast cupfuls of water, add six ounces of loaf sugar, the grated rind and strained juice of a large lemon, one and one-half pints of white wine. Whisk the soup over a gentle fire until on the point of boiling, removing immediately. Turn into a tureen, and serve with a plate of sponge cakes or fancy biscuits. (This soup should be served as soon as taken from fire.)
CHESTNUT SOUP—Peel and blanch the chestnuts, boil them in salted water until quite soft, pass through a sieve, add more water if too thick, and a spoonful of butter or several of sweet cream, season to taste, and serve with small squares of bread fried crisp in butter or olive oil.[Pg 17]
BOILED CODFISH, WITH CREAM SAUCE—Take out the inside of a cod by the white skin of the belly, taking care to remove all blood. Place the fish in a kettle with salted cold water; boil fast at first, then slowly. When done take out and skin. Pour over it a sauce made as follows:
One-fourth pound butter put into a stewpan with one tablespoonful of flour, moistened with one pint of cream or rich milk, and salt and pepper, and also one teaspoonful essence of anchovies. Place the pan over the fire and let thicken, but not boil.
BOILED MACKEREL—Prepare and clean some mackerel. Put in water and boil until they are done. When cooked, drain and put the mackerel on a hot dish. Blanch some fennel in salted water. When it is soft drain and chop finely. Put one tablespoonful in half pint of butter sauce. Serve in a sauce boat with the fish.
BOILED SALMON WITH SAUCE TARTARE—Scrape the skin of the fish, wipe, and if you have no regular fish kettle with a perforated lid, tie in a piece of cheesecloth and place gently in a kettle of boiling salted water. Push the kettle back on the fire (where it will simmer gently, instead of boiling hard) and cook, allowing about six minutes to the pound. Remove carefully, drain, and chill. If the fish breaks and looks badly take out the bones, flake, pile lightly on the platter and pour the sauce over it. This may be a hot sauce Hollandaise or a cold sauce tartare.
BROILED MACKEREL—Draw and wash the mackerel. Cut off heads and rub over with salt and leave for an hour. Rub a gridiron with olive oil, lay the mackerel on it and broil over a charcoal fire. Place some chopped parsley and onions on a hot dish, with the hot fish, squeezing over the mackerel a little lemon juice. Serve hot.[Pg 18]
BROILED MACKEREL, WITH BLACK BUTTER—Take some mackerel, open and remove bones. Season with butter, pepper, and salt. Place the fish on a gridiron and broil over a clear fire. Put a part of the butter in a saucepan and stir it over the fire until it is richly browned, squeezing into it a little lemon juice. Place the fish on a hot dish, arrange some sprigs of parsley around it, and pour over it the butter sauce, and serve hot.
CODFISH CONES—When it is not convenient to make and fry fish balls try this substitute. Pick enough salt codfish into shreds to measure two cups and let stand in cold water for two or more hours, then drain dry. Make a sauce from one cup of hot milk, two level tablespoons each of flour and butter, and cook five minutes. Mash and season enough hot boiled potatoes to measure two cups, add the sauce and the fish and beat well with a fork. Shape in small cones, set on a butter pan, brush with melted butter and scatter fine bread crumbs over. Set in oven to brown.
CODFISH HASH—Take a cup of cooked cod, pick in pieces and soak in cold water for twelve hours. Boil some potatoes and add them to the finely chopped fish, a little at a time. Put in a saucepan with some butter and stir. Let it cook gently.
FINNAN HADDIE FISH CAKES—The finnan haddie parboiled with an equal quantity of mashed potatoes, season with melted butter, salt and pepper, add a beaten egg, and mold into cakes.
FISH, EAST INDIA STYLE—Peel two medium-sized onions, cut into thin slices. Put in a stewpan with a small lump of butter and fry until lightly browned. Pour over them some white stock, judging the quantity by that of the fish; one ounce of butter, little curry powder, salt, lemon juice, a little sugar, and cayenne pepper. Boil the stock for fifteen or twenty minutes, then strain into a stewpan, skim and put in the fish, having it carefully prepared. Boil gently, without breaking the fish. Wash and boil half a cup of rice in water, and when cooked it should be dried and the grains unbroken. Turn the curry out on a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread. Serve hot, with the rice in separate dish.
FISH EN CASSEROLE—One of those earthen baking dishes with close-fitting cover of the same ware and fit for placing on the table is especially useful for cooking fish. For instance, take two pounds of the thick part of cod or haddock, both[Pg 19] of which are cheap fish. Take off the skin and lay in the casserole. Make a sauce from two cups of milk heated, with a good slice of onion, a rounding tablespoon of minced parsley, a small piece of mace, a few gratings of the yellow rind of lemon, half a level teaspoon of salt, and a little white pepper. Cook in the top of a double boiler for twenty minutes. Heat one-quarter cup of butter in a saucepan, add three level tablespoons of flour, and cook smooth, turn on the hot milk after straining out the seasonings. Cook until thick and pour over the fish. Cover and bake half hour, then if the fish is done serve in the same dish with little finely minced parsley scattered over.
LOUISIANA COD—Melt one-quarter cup of butter and let it begin to color, add two level tablespoons of flour and stir until smooth. Add one cup of water and cook five minutes. Add half a level teaspoon of salt, half as much pepper, and a teaspoon of lemon juice. Chop fine one medium-size onion and one small green pepper, after taking out the seeds. Brown them in two tablespoons of butter, add one cup of strained tomatoes, a bit of bay leaf, and the prepared sauce. Put slices of cod cut an inch thick into a casserole, pour on the sauce, cover closely, and bake in a slow oven three-quarters of an hour.
METELOTE OF HADDOCK—Wash and skin the haddock and remove the flesh from the bones in firm pieces suitable for serving. Put the head, bones and trimmings to cook in cold water and add a small sliced onion and salt and pepper. Boil six good-sized onions until tender, then drain and slice and put half of them into a buttered baking dish. Arrange the pieces of fish on these, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then add the remaining onions. Drain the fish from the trimmings, add to it two tablespoons lemon juice and pour it over onions and fish. Cover very closely and cook in the oven until the fish is tender. Then drain off the liquid, heat it to the boiling point, and thicken it with two eggs slightly beaten and diluted with a little of the hot liquid. Arrange the onions on a hot platter and place the fish on top, then pour over the thickened liquid.
A MOLD OF SALMON—If where one cannot get fresh fish, the canned salmon makes a delicious mold. Serve very cold on a bed of crisp lettuce or cress. Drain off the juice from a can of salmon, and flake, picking out every fragment of bone and skin. Mix with the fish one egg lightly beaten, the juice of a half lemon, a cup fine dry bread crumbs, and salt and pepper to season. Pack in a buttered mold which has a tight-fitting[Pg 20] tin cover, steam for two hours, and cool. After it gets quite cold set on the ice until ready to carve.
OYSTERS A LA POULETTE—One quart oysters, four level tablespoons butter, four level tablespoons flour, one-half level teaspoon salt, one-fourth level teaspoon celery salt, one-half cup oysters liquor, one cup each of chicken stock and milk, juice one-half lemon. Look over the oysters, heat quickly to the boiling point, then drain and strain the liquor through cheesecloth. Melt the butter, add the flour, salt and celery salt, and when blended add the oyster liquor, chicken stock and milk, stirring until thick and smooth. Cook for five minutes, then add the oysters and lemon juice, and serve at once.
OYSTER FRICASSE—Put one pint of oysters into a double boiler or into the top of the chafing dish. As soon as the edges curl add the slightly beaten yolks of three eggs, a few grains of pepper and half a teaspoon of salt. Set over hot water and as soon as the egg thickens add a teaspoon of lemon juice. Spread on slices of toasted brown bread and garnish with celery tips. Celery salt is a good addition to the seasoning.
RECHAUFFE OF FINNAN HADDIE—Cover a finnan haddie with boiling water and let it simmer for twenty minutes, then remove the kettle and flake, discarding the skin and bones. For three cups of fish scald two cups of thin cream and add to the fish. Season with paprika or a dash of cayenne, and when thoroughly heated stir in the yolks of two eggs, diluted with a little hot cream.
SCALLOPED CLAMS IN SHELL—Chop the clams very fine and season with salt and cayenne pepper. In another dish mix some powdered crackers, moistened first with warm milk, then with clam liquor, a beaten egg and some melted butter, the quantity varying with the amount of clams used; stir in the chopped clams. Wash clean as many shells as the mixture will fill, wipe and butter them, fill heaping full with the mixture, smoothing with a spoon. Place in rows in a baking pan and bake until well browned. Send to the table hot.
SCALLOPED SHRIMPS—Make a sauce with a level tablespoon of cornstarch, a rounding tablespoon of butter and one cup of milk cooked together five minutes. Season with one-quarter level teaspoon of salt and a few grains of cayenne. Add one can of shrimps after removing all bits of shell and mincing them fine. Use, if preferred, the same amount of fresh shrimps. Put into buttered scallop shells, scatter fine bread crumbs over[Pg 21] the top of each, and dot with bits of butter. Set in a quick oven to brown the crumbs, and serve hot in the shells.
STEWED CODFISH—Take a piece of boiled cod, remove the skin and bones and pick into flakes. Put these in a stewpan, with a little butter, salt, pepper, minced parsley and juice of a lemon. Put on the fire and when the contents of the pan are quite hot the fish is ready to serve.
CODFISH CONES—When it is not convenient to make and preparation into shapes, dip them into egg beaten with cream, then in sifted breadcrumbs and let them stand for half an hour or so to dry; then fry them a delicate color after plunging into boiling lard. Take them out, drain, place on a napkin on a dish and serve. The remainder of the chicken stock may be used for making consomme or soup.
BEEF EN CASSEROLE—Have a steak cut two inches thick and broil two minutes on each side. Lay in a casserole and pour round two cups of rich brown sauce; add three onions cut in halves.
BEEF HASH CAKES—Chop cold corned beef fine and add a little more than the same measure of cold boiled potatoes, chopped less fine than the beef. Season with onion juice, make into small cakes, and brown in butter or beef drippings; serve each cake on a slice of buttered toast moistened slightly.
BEEF RAGOUT—Another way to serve the remnants of cold meat is to melt one rounding tablespoon of butter in a pan and let it brown lightly. Add two rounding tablespoons of flour and stir until smooth and browned; add one cup of strained tomato and one cup of stock or strained gravy, or part gravy and part water. When this sauce is thickened add two cups of meat cut in small, thin slices or shavings. Stir until heated through and no longer, as that will harden the meat. Season with salt and pepper, and serve at once.[Pg 22]
BOILED BONED HAM—Wash a ham, place it in a saucepan, cover with cold water and boil for four or five hours, according to its size. Take out the bone, roll the ham and place it in a basin with a large weight on top. When cold put it on a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve.
BONED HAM—Have the bone taken from a small ham and put into a kettle of cold water with one onion cut in quarters, a dozen cloves, and a bay leaf. Cook slowly until tender and do not test it until you have allowed fifteen minutes to the pound. Take from the kettle, remove the skin, brush with beaten egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and set in the oven to brown.
BREADED CUTLETS—Have the cutlets cut into portions of the right size for serving. Dust each side with salt and pepper. Beat one egg with a tablespoon of cold water, dip the cutlets in this and roll in fine bread crumbs. Fry three slices of salt pork in the frying-pan and cook the cutlets in this fat. As veal must be well done to be wholesome, cook it slowly about fifteen minutes. Serve with a gravy made from the contents of the pan or with a tomato sauce.
BROILED LIVER AND BACON—As broiling in most cases is wasteful, the liver and bacon are generally fried together, but the dish is somewhat spoiled by this method. The best way is to fry the well-trimmed slices of bacon, and after having washed and sliced the liver, say a third of an inch thick, dry it on a cloth and dip in flour. Place in the bacon fat and broil over a clear fire, adding pepper and salt while cooking. When done lay on a dish, placing a piece of bacon on each piece of liver.
BROILED PIG'S FEET—Thoroughly clean as many pig's feet as are required, and split lengthwise in halves, tying them with a broad tape so they will not open in cooking. Put in a saucepan with a seasoning of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, allspice, carrots and onions, with sufficient water to cover. Boil slowly until tender, and let them cool in the liquor. Dip in the beaten yolks of eggs and warmed butter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cover with bread crumbs seasoned with very finely chopped shallot and parsley. Put on a gridiron over a clear fire and broil until well and evenly browned. Unbind and arrange on a dish, garnish with fried parsley and serve.
BROILED SHEEP'S KIDNEYS—To broil sheep's kidneys cut them open, put them on small skewers. Season with salt and pepper and broil. When done serve with shallot or maitre d'hotel sauce.[Pg 23]
BRUNSWICK STEW—Cut up one chicken, preferably a good fat hen, cover with cold water, season with salt and pepper, and cook slowly until about half done. Add six ears of green corn, splitting through the kernels, one pint butter beans and six large tomatoes chopped fine. A little onion may be added if desired. Cook until the vegetables are thoroughly done, but very slowly, so as to avoid burning. Add strips of pastry for dumplings and cook five minutes. Fresh pork can be used in place of the chicken and canned vegetables instead of the fresh.
CALVES' TONGUES—Wash and put into a saucepan with half a dozen slices of carrot, an onion sliced, five cloves, a teaspoon of whole peppercorns, and half a level tablespoon of salt. Cover with boiling water and simmer until tender. Drain and cool a little, then take off the skin. Drop back into the hot liquid to reheat. Serve with a sauce. Melt one-quarter cup of butter, add three slightly rounding tablespoons of flour, stir and cook until browned, add two cups of broth, brown stock of rich gravy melted in hot water, one-half level teaspoon of salt, the same of paprika, a saltspoon of allspice, one tablespoon of vinegar, a few grains of cayenne, and half a tablespoon of capers. Pour over the tongues and serve.
CORNED BEEF HASH—To two cups of chopped cold corned beef, add two cups of chopped cold boiled potatoes. Heat three tablespoons of bacon fat in a frying pan and add the meat and potato, add pepper and salt, if necessary, and moisten with water. Cook slowly until a nice brown underneath. Roll from the pan on to a hot platter. Garnish with parsley and serve with pickled beets.
ENGLISH POT ROAST—Cut one pound of cold roast into two-inch pieces, slice four good sized potatoes thin, also one onion, into a deep dish, put a layer of the beef, one of potatoes, one of onions, salt and pepper, another layer of meat, potatoes and onions, season again, add one cup gravy, and over all put a thick layer of potatoes. Bake three hours—the longer and slower the better.
FRANKFORT SAUSAGE—For this use any part of the pig, but equal quantities of lean and fat. Mince fine, season with ground coriander seed, salt, pepper, and a small quantity of nutmeg. Have ready skins, well cleaned and soaked in cold water for several hours, fill with the seasoned meat, secure the ends and hang in a cool, dry place until needed.[Pg 24]
FRIED HAM—Cut off a thick slice of ham. Place in a saucepan over the fire, with sufficient water to cover and let come to a boil. Pour off the water, and fry the ham slowly until it is brown on both sides. Season with pepper and serve. Eggs are usually served with fried ham. They may be fried in the same pan or separately, in sufficient grease to prevent burning. Season with salt and pepper, place around the ham.
HAM AND CHICKEN PIE—Trim off the skin of some cold chicken and cut the meat into small pieces. Mix with an equal quantity of finely chopped lean ham and a small lot of chopped shallot. Season with salt, pepper and pounded mace, moisten with a few tablespoonfuls of white stock. Butter a pie dish, line the edges with puff paste and put in the mixture, placing puff paste over the top. Trim it around the edges, moisten and press together, cut a small hole in the top, and bake in a moderate oven. When cooked, pour a small quantity of hot cream through the hole in the top of the pie, and serve.
HAM CROQUETTES—Chop very fine one-fourth of a pound of ham; mix with it an equal quantity of boiled and mashed potatoes, two hard boiled eggs chopped, one tablespoonful chopped parsley. Season to taste. Then stir in the yolk of an egg. Flour the hands and shape the mixture into small balls. Fry in deep fat. Place on a dish, garnish with parsley and serve.
HASH WITH DROPPED EGGS—Mince or grind cold cooked meat and add two-thirds as much cold chopped vegetables. The best proportions of vegetables are half potato and one-quarter each of beets and carrots. Put a little gravy stock or hot water with butter melted in it, into a saucepan, turn in the meat and vegetables and heat, stirring all the time. Season with salt, pepper, and a little onion juice if liked. Turn into a buttered baking dish, smooth over, and set in the oven to brown. Take up and press little depressions in the top, and drop an egg into each. Set back into the oven until the egg is set, but not cooked hard. Serve in the same dish.
LAMB CHOPS EN CASSEROLE—Trim off the superfluous fat from the chops, and place them in a casserole with a medium sized onion, sliced and separated into rings. Cover each layer of chops with the onion rings, then add a pint of boiling water. Cover and cook for one hour and one-half in a moderate oven. Add salt and pepper and some sliced carrot, and cook until the carrot is tender. Remove the chops to a hot platter and pour over them the gravy which may be thickened, then garnish with the carrot.[Pg 25]
LAMB CURRY—Cut the meat into small pieces, (and the inferior portions, such as the neck can be utilized in a curry), roll in flour and fry in hot olive oil, pork fat, or butter, until a rich brown. Mince or slice an onion and fry in the same way. Then put into a saucepan, cover with boiling water, and simmer until the bones and gristly pieces will slip out. When the meat is sufficiently tender add a cupful each strained tomato and rice, then a powder. Cook ten minutes longer and serve.
MEAT PIE—Chop fine, enough of cold roast beef to make two cupfuls, also one small onion, pare as many potatoes as desired and boil, mash and cream as for mashed potatoes. Drain a cupful of tomato liquid free from seeds, stir meat, onion and tomato juice together, put in a deep dish, spread potatoes over the top and bake in a hot oven.
MINCED MUTTON—Mince the meat from a cold roast of mutton, put into a saucepan. Make a roux, moisten with a little stock and season with salt and pepper, adding butter and some gherkins. Put the minced meat into the sauce and let it cook without boiling. Serve with thin slices of bread around the plate.
PIG'S EARS, LYONNAISE—Singe off all the hair from pig's ears, scrape and wash well and cut lengthwise into strips. Place them in a saucepan with a little stock, add a small quantity of flour, a few slices of onion fried, salt and pepper to taste. Place the pan over a slow fire and simmer until the ears are thoroughly cooked. Arrange on a dish, add a little lemon juice to the liquor and pour over the ears. Serve with a garnish of fried bread.
PORK CUTLETS AND ANCHOVY SAUCE—Broil on a well greased gridiron, over the fire, nicely cut and trimmed cutlets of pork. Place frills on the bones of the cutlets. Serve very hot with Anchovy Sauce.
RAGOUT OF COOKED MEAT—Cut one pint of cold meat into half-inch dice, removing the fat, bone and gristle. Put the meat into a stew pan, cover with boiling water and simmer slowly two or three hours or until very tender. Then add half a can of mushrooms cut fine, two tablespoons of lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Wet one tablespoonful of cornstarch to a smooth paste with a little cold water and stir into the boiling liquor, add a teaspoon of caramel if not brown enough. Cook ten minutes and serve plain or in a border of mashed potatoes. The seasoning may be varied by using one teaspoon of curry powder, a few grains of cayenne or half a tumbler of currant jelly and salt to taste.[Pg 26]
RICE AND BEEF CROQUETTES—To use up cold meat economically combine two cups of chopped beef or mutton with two cups of freshly boiled rice. Season well with salt, pepper, onion juice, a large teaspoon of minced parsley, and a teaspoon of lemon juice. Pack on a large plate and set away to cool. After the mixture is cold, shape into croquettes, dip into beaten egg, roll in fine crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat.
ROLLED RIB ROAST—Have the backbone and ribs removed and utilize them for making a stew for lunch. Tie the meat into a round shape and sprinkle it with salt and pepper, then dredge with flour and place in a dripping pan. Have the oven hot when the meat is first put into it, in order that it may be seared over quickly to prevent the juices from escaping. Then reduce the heat and baste with the fat in the pan. When done place on a hot platter and surround with riced potato.
SHEEP'S BRAINS, WITH SMALL ONIONS—Take sheep's brains. Soak in lukewarm water and blanch. Stew with thin slices of bacon, a little white wine, parsley, shallots, cloves, small onions, salt and pepper. When done arrange the brains on a dish, with the onion's around; reduce the sauce and serve. Calves' brains may be dressed in the same way.
SHEEP'S TONGUES—Sheep's tongues are usually boiled in water and then broiled. To dress them, first skin and split down the center. Dip them in butter or sweet oil, mixed with parsley, green onions, mushrooms, clove of garlic, all shredded fine, salt and pepper. Then cover with bread crumbs and broil. Serve with an acid sauce.
SHOULDER OF VEAL BRAISED—Buy a shoulder of veal and ask the butcher to bone it and send the bones with the meat. Cover the bones with cold water and when it comes to a boil skim, then add a little onion and carrot and a few seasoning herbs and any spices desired. Simmer gently for an hour or so until you have a pint of stock. To make the stuffing take a stale loaf, cut off the crust and soak in a little cold water until soft. Rub the crumbs of the loaf as fine as possible in the hands, then add to the soaked and softened crust. Chop a half cup of suet fine, put into a frying pan a tablespoon of the suet, and when hot add an onion chopped fine. Cook until brown then add to the bread with regular poultry seasoning or else salt, pepper, and a bit of thyme. Mix well and stuff the cavity in the shoulder, then pull the flaps of the meat over and sew up. Put the rest of the[Pg 27] suet in the frying pan and having dusted the meat with flour, salt and pepper and a sprinkling of sugar, brown on all sides in the fat into the bottom of the braising pan, which may be any shallow iron pot or granite kettle with a tight cover, put a layer of thin sliced onions and carrots, a bit of bay leaf and sprigs of parsley, and on this lay the meat. Add two or three cloves, pour hot stock around it, cover closely and braise in a hot oven for three hours.
SPANISH CHOPS—Gash six French chops on outer edge, extending cut more than half way through lean meat. Stuff, dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs, fry in deep fat five minutes and drain on brown paper.
For the stuffing mix six tablespoons of soft bread crumbs, three tablespoons of chopped cooked ham, two tablespoons chopped mushroom caps, two tablespoons melted butter, salt and pepper to taste.
HARICOT OF MUTTON—To make a la bourgeoise, cut a shoulder of mutton in pieces about the width of two fingers. Mix a little butter with a tablespoonful of flour and place over a slow fire, stirring until the color of cinnamon. Put in the pieces of meat, giving them two or three turns over the fire, then add some stock, if you have it, or about half pint of hot water, which must be stirred in a little at a time. Season with salt, pepper, parsley, green onions, bay leaf, thyme, garlic, cloves, and basil. Set the whole over a slow fire and when half done skim off as much fat as possible. Have ready some turnips, cut in pieces, and stew with the meat. When done take out the herbs and skim off what fat remains, reducing the stock if too thin.
VEAL CROQUETTES—Make a thick sauce from one cup of milk, two level tablespoons of butter, and four level tablespoons of flour. Cook five minutes, season with salt, pepper and celery salt, and a few drops of lemon juice, and a tablespoon of finely minced parsley. Add two cups of cold cooked veal chopped fine and cool the mixture. Shape into little rolls, dip in an egg beaten with one tablespoon of water then roll in fine bread crumbs. Fry in deep smoking hot fat. Be sure to coat the whole surface with egg and to have the fat very hot, as the mixture has been cooked once and merely needs beating to the center and browning on the outside.
VEAL LOAF—Mince fine three pounds lean raw veal and a quarter of a pound of fat pork. Add a half onion chopped fine or grated, a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful pepper and a tea[Pg 28]spoonful seasoning herbs. Mix well, add two-thirds of a cup cracker crumbs, a half cup veal gravy, the yolk of one egg and the whites of two beaten together. Form into a loaf, pressing firmly together. Brush over with the yolk of an egg, dust with finely rolled cracker crumbs and set in a greased rack in the dripping pan. When it begins to brown, turn a cup of hot water into the pan and baste frequently until done. It will take about an hour and a half in a moderate oven.
VEAL PATTIES—Make a sauce of two level tablespoons each of butter and flour, one cup of stock or boiling water, and one cup of thin cream. Cook five minutes, add two cups of finely chopped cooked veal, half a level teaspoon of salt, a saltspoon of pepper, also the beaten yolks of two eggs, and a tablespoon of finely minced parsley. As soon as the egg thickens take from the fire and fill hot pastry cases.
VIRGINIA STEW—A half grown chicken or two squirrels, one slice of salt pork, twelve large tomatoes, three cups of lima beans, one large onion, two large Irish potatoes, twelve ears of corn, one-fourth pound of butter, one-fourth pound of lard, one gallon of boiling water, two tablespoonfuls salt and pepper; mix as any ordinary soup and let it cook for a couple of hours or more, then serve.
BROILING STEAK—While many prefer steak fairly well done, still the great majority desire to have it either rare, or certainly not overdone. For those who wish a steak well done—completely through—and still not to have the outside crisp to a cinder, it is necessary to cut the steak possibly as thin as one-half inch, and then the outside can have that delicious and intense scorching which quickly prevents the escape of juices, and also gives the slightly burned taste which at its perfect condition is the most delicious flavor from my own preference that can be given to a steak. By this I do not mean a steak burned to a cinder, but slightly scorched over a very hot fire.
FOR RARE BROILED STEAK—For those who are fond of rare steak it can be cut from one inch to one and one-quarter inches in thickness and the outside thoroughly and quickly broiled, leaving the inside practically only partially cooked, so that the blood will follow the knife and still the steak has been heated completely through and a thin crust on either side has been well cooked, which has formed the shell to retain the juices.
PROPERLY FRYING STEAK—To fry steak properly (although some claim it is not proper to fry steak under any cir[Pg 29]cumstances), it is necessary to have the butter, oleo, fat or grease piping hot, for two reasons: First, the steak sears over quickly, and the juices are thus retained within the steak to better advantage than by the slow process of cooking, but even more important is the fact that the incrustation thus formed not only holds the juices within the steak, but prevents the fat from penetrating and making the steak greasy, soggy and unattractive. As a rule, however, we must acknowledge that broiled steak is in varying degrees largely superior to fried steak.
BROILED LOIN STEAKS—Two loin steaks of about a pound each: season with salt and pepper to taste, baste on either side with a little oil. Place on a broiler over a bright charcoal fire, and broil for six minutes, on each side. Serve on a hot dish with Bordeaux sauce and garnish with rounds of marrow.
FRIED HAMBURG STEAK, WITH RUSSIAN SAUCE—Select a piece of buttock beef, remove the fat and chop very fine. Add finely chopped shallot, two eggs, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Mix well and form into balls. Roll in bread crumbs and fry with a little clarified butter four or five minutes, turning frequently. Serve with Russian sauce.
FRIED SAUSAGE MEAT—Roll sausage meat into small balls, wrapping each in a thin rasher of bacon and fasten with a skewer. Fry lightly in a little butter. Serve with fried parsley and croutons of fried bread. Serve hot.
ROAST BEEF, AMERICAN STYLE—Lay the meat on sticks in a dripping pan, so as not to touch the water which is placed in the bottom of the pan. Season with salt and pepper and roast for three or four hours, basting frequently. When done sift over the top browned cracker crumbs and garnish with parsley.
ROAST BEEF ON SPIT—Remove most of the flap from sirloin and trim neatly. Have a clear brisk fire and place the meat close to it for the first half hour, then move it farther away, basting frequently, and when done sprinkle well with salt. The gravy may be prepared by taking the meat from the dripping pan which will have a brown sediment. Pour in some boiling water and salt. Strain over the meat. A thickening of flour may be added if necessary. Garnish with horseradish and serve with horseradish sauce.
ROAST RIBS OF BEEF—Break off the ends of the bones of the desired amount of ribs; take out the shin-bone, and place[Pg 30] the meat in a baking pan. Sprinkle with salt and spread some small lumps of butter over it and dust with flour, baking in a moderate oven till done. Serve hot and garnish with horseradish.
ROAST SHOULDER OF PORK—Remove the bone from a shoulder of pork and spread it over inside with a stuffing of sage and onions, filling the cavity where the bone was taken out. Roll up and secure with a string, put in a pan and roast in a very hot oven till done. When done put on a dish, skim off the fat in the pan, add a little water and a tablespoon of made mustard, boil the gravy once and pass through a strainer over the meat and serve.
SMOKED BEEF WITH CREAM—Place the finely minced beef in a stewpan with a lump of butter, cooking it for two minutes, and moisten slightly with a little cream, add two tablespoonfuls of bechame
GOOD
THINGS TO EAT
hat
the average parent is blind to the faults of its offspring is a fact so obvious
that in attempting to prove or controvert it time and logic are both wasted. Ill
temper in a child is, alas! too often mistaken for an indication of genius; and
impudence is sometimes regarded as a sign of precocity. The author, however, has
honestly striven to avoid this common prejudice. This book, the child of his
brain, and experience, extending over a long period of time and varying
environment, he frankly admits is not without its faults—is far from perfect;
but he is satisfied that, notwithstanding its apparent shortcomings, it will
serve in a humble way some useful purpose.